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| Whacking a PC310 collet to release it?? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=4165 |
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| Author: | Pete Licis [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 6:50 am ] |
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... to release the bit in a Porter Cable PC310? I remember reading on several web site about whacking the bit (or collet, or ???), and if done right supposedly it's easy. Guess I ain't doin' it right! 
Perhaps if someone could tell me exactly where to whack, how (angle???), and with what, might help me get it done right. Thanks, Whackily Challenged, Pete |
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| Author: | JJ Donohue [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 7:05 am ] |
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Whack the nut...make sure it's not yours! 
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 7:29 am ] |
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Yes, after loosening, tap the nut on the collet. I would only hit it as hard as minimally necessary to let the bit go. Any more than that an you might risk creating additional runout from a bent shaft. |
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| Author: | Don Williams [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 7:30 am ] |
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Pete, Seems like I used to know someone by the same name as yours. He supposedly works right around the corner from me, but as yet I haven't figured out where. You whack the nut. |
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| Author: | Pete Licis [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 7:55 am ] |
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So it seems like you whack the nut, eh? I was actually removing the nut and whacking everything else except the threads. Hmmmmm. Paul, you say tap. Somehow I don't think mere tapping will do much, but ... I'll try it. How do you tap? From the side (perpendicular to the axis of the shaft)? Using what ... the supplied wrenches?? Don - it seems to me that someone with the same name as mine knows you. You still work around the corner?? I figured you were long gone. If you're still around, we should hit Coddington Brewpub someday for lunch. Oh, and Don ... whack your own nut! |
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| Author: | Terry Stowell [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 8:03 am ] |
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don't bottom out the bit into the collet next time you install a bit. If it gets stuck again after loosening the nut, useing a block of wood, tap the end of the bit STRAIGHT INTO the collet (it'll have someplace to go if it's not bottomed out)and once it's been unseated, it'll slide out freely, if there's no debris, pitch, etc, in the collet |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 9:43 am ] |
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This is a problem that the 310 is infamous for having. The collet actually locks onto the bit. Which, while working with it, is a good thing. The darn thing won't slip out like someone here had happen during a binding job. So here's what I do. As Terry said, don't bottom out the bit. Leave 1/16" or so before it bottoms out. That's actually a good habit to practice as you are sure the collet is grabbing the bit and not just pushing it down into the already bottomed out base. When removing it, losen the nut almost all the way and hit it from both sides with the back of the wrenches. The first time or two it might take a good wack but after that a tap is really all it needs. Just be careful that you don't hit it so hard you do damage to the spindle or bearings. |
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| Author: | D.L.Huskey [ Mon Dec 19, 2005 12:40 pm ] |
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I thought it was common practice not to insert the bit all the way into the collet no matter what kind of router one is using. This is to keep the collet from locking onto the area where the arbor and bit is joined together. I don't have a PC router but I have an old C'man that the bit has to be coaxed out of it. My Makita's dont have that problem. |
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| Author: | Dennis E. [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 12:37 am ] |
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Don't use a wrench for a hammer! Not only is it hard on your nuts, it's like using a chisel for a prybar. Small deadblow hammers with dual plastic and rubber faces are dirt cheap at Harbor Freight. No shop should be without one. You nuts will thank you. |
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| Author: | Mario [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 1:50 am ] |
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Actually, the instructions(RTFM) say to lightly tap the nut with the wrench to loosen the bit. The collet is a tight fitting taper, and it needs a little shock to allow it to release. The older the machine gets, the easier it will release. One light tap is all that's needed.... Loosen the nut, but not to where it is rattling-loose; leave it finger-snug, then tap it. If it's rattling, the tap won't transfer well into the collet, forcing you to hit it harder/more often. Once you get the hang of it, it will become second nature... sure beats having a collet that doesn't hold the bit tightly enough! On another note, can we be a little more specific with out thread titles, please? It's all guess work around here as to what is really being talked about. Some of us don't read all the threads, so it really helps if the title reflects the contents. In this case, I thought we were 'offing' someone, but then I realized it said "what" and not "who' do we whack..... |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:41 am ] |
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Hi All, Not sure if its exactly the same because Iuse the 7309 PC, but the tighening wrench that comes with this one has the typical one end for tightening the nut on the collet, but the other has a tapered dovetail shape open end, which nicely fits over the exposed collet insert, and a light tap on the wrench when the dovetail is over the collet forces it to loosen. Again, once the machine wears a touch, this is no longer required to get teh bits out any more. I have two, a new one, and its still tight, the older one just releases. |
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| Author: | Terry Stowell [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 2:19 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=Mario] On another note, can we be a little more specific with out thread titles, please? It's all guess work around here as to what is really being talked about. Some of us don't read all the threads, so it really helps if the title reflects the contents. [/QUOTE] I'll second that. Remember, someday someone may want to search the archives for something, and not find it. Then they'll have to ask the questions all over again and we'll say the same thing and it'll be a deja vu deal. REMEMBER - TITLES CAN BE EDITED! Look up...(until they go into archives, then you'll have to ask Lance) How bout "how do I release a stuck router collet" |
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| Author: | old man [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:49 pm ] |
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On the other hand; it might be cool to hit the archives and do a search on whacking and see what happens. Ron 
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| Author: | Terry Stowell [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 3:55 pm ] |
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| Like "Terry gets whacked for giving his opinion when noboday asked for it"
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| Author: | Todd Rose [ Tue Dec 20, 2005 9:54 pm ] |
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Whacking the nut directly with the wrench is probably fine, but I lay the router down on its side on my bench, take a little block of wood I keep on hand for the purpose, hold that against the nut, and whack the wood (lightly) with the wrench. The bit comes right out every time. I'm not worried about bending the shaft with such a light whack, but I wonder sometimes if the repeated whackings might put some wear on the bearings. Probably nothing to worry about, since this is the manufacturers recommended method. But I might try Terry's method of tapping the bit straight into the collet (with the block of wood). |
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| Author: | Pete Licis [ Wed Dec 21, 2005 3:11 am ] |
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Thanks for all the help guys. I never let the bit bottom out in any router (I pull it up 1/16" or so), so I guess I'll just have to hone my releasing skills with the 310. Also, it is relatively new, and hasn't been used that much yet, so hopefully it'll loosen up a bit over time. Interesting ... I edited my original post up top to change the title, and while it changes it at the top of the page with actual thread (and on this particular response), it doesn't seem to change it in the main discussion forum listing. |
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| Author: | Terry Stowell [ Wed Dec 21, 2005 4:54 am ] |
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Maybe Brock's still working out the hacker's damage.I tried to post a picture yesterday, and it wouldn't take. Did you remove the "re: re: re:" ? not sure if that makes a difference or not.... By the way Pete, let know what works out on the collet issue. I'd probably disassemble, clean with naptha and reassemble, just for fun. (to make sure there is no sticky manufacturing "goop" in there. But it sounds like others are saying it's a design "feature" of the 310. |
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| Author: | Pete Licis [ Wed Dec 21, 2005 5:29 am ] |
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Terry, yeah I think there may still be something funky with the server. I tried to edit my last post several times, and when I hit the "Post Reply" button, I'd end up on a page similar to those "page not found" pages, and no edit ended up on the message. Hey, and I guess I typed the new title into the wrong field. I just typed it into the one that had the re:re:re: business, and this time it worked right. Yeah, the sticky release is indeed a "design feature". After not having used it for a while, I took out my 310 to route a saddle slot, and got very irritated at not being able to release the bit yet once again. By the way, the "cup" that the collet rests in was cleaned out recently, and I even put a little grease on the sides of the cup. I had read that sometimes helps ... as long as you make sure you don't get the grease between the collet and the bit. Maybe it worked better without the grease? I'll let you all know how it went as I try again tonight. |
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| Author: | Sylvan [ Wed Dec 21, 2005 6:20 am ] |
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I use many 310's every day. However, long ago, I put IN THE COLLET a rubber o-ring that seats in the bottom of the collet. This prevent you from inserting the bit to far and having these problems. Occasionally, the collet will stick but it is very easy to tap and get out. |
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| Author: | Pete Licis [ Thu Dec 22, 2005 3:43 am ] |
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Tapping the nut didn't seem to work well. I tried a finger-tight nut, loose nut, holding the router tightly, laying it against the table, etc. What did finally work was a gentle tap on the end of the bit using a scrap of soft wood to protect the tip of the 1/8" downspiral bit. Couple of taps ... the bit slipped down further into the router, and out it came! Hopefully releasing the bit will get easier and will work by tapping the nut as time goes on, since I didn't really like tapping on a brittle carbide bit that small. |
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| Author: | Terry Stowell [ Thu Dec 22, 2005 5:17 am ] |
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Yippie! Be free little router bit! Freedom!! |
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